| 1. |
When possible, remove the entire board hosting the damage. If needed,
you can opt instead to mark cutting end lines and remove only the damaged
section of the board. At either of the board’s natural ends or your new
cutting end lines, use your drill and a spade bit to gore a series of holes
across the entire width of the damaged board. Then do the same at the other
end. Use caution as you drill and don’t extend into the subfloor.
If you made new end markings, carefully cut along your lines by tapping
a hammer against a sharp wood chisel. |
| 2. |
Use a wood chisel and hammer to split the board in half (it may be helpful
to start at the area of damage). Be careful not to damage the good adjacent
planks as you work your way to the ends. |
| 3. |
Use a prybar to splinter out the damaged pieces. The spade-hole end pieces
can be carefully pulled up using a wood chisel and hammer. Again, take your
time and be careful not to make contact with good board ends. |
| 4. |
Measure the empty space where your old board rested, being as exact as
possible. A tight fit is essential for a superior replacement. When cutting
the board ends, make sure your saw blade is very sharp of you’ll fray
the ends. If needed, sand lightly until the end is straight and smooth.
Slip into place fitting the groove over the adjacent board’s tongue.
Ensure the length is just right: buttressed against the ends of the other
boards without needing to be forced. Once you know it fits, remove it and
apply wood flooring adhesive to the entire underside and to the groove,
then reinstall. Secure the groove over the adjacent tongue by tapping a
wood block or scrap against the new board with a rubber mallet. Once in
place, blind-nail flooring nails through the tongue into the subfloor.
Tip: If this is your only replacement,
you’ll need to shave off the bottom edge of the new board’s
groove using a sharp chisel and hammer before setting it in place. Since
you can’t blind nail the groove of this board, make sure you put floor
adhesive across the entire backside and along both the tongue and groove
edges. Wipe any excess adhesive from board faces immediately. Face-nail
each end and cover holes with matching wood putty. |
| 5. |
Keep placing boards and blind-nail them securely. If needed, use shims
to keep new boards aligned with the adjacent ones. |
| 6. |
Once you get to your final replacement board, you’ll need to remove
the bottom groove edge to make it fit. Use a sharp chisel and hammer to
carefully shave it off. Install it to make sure it fits perfectly, then
remove it. Apply a thin even coat of floor adhesive to the entire backside
of the board and along both the tongue and groove edges. Insert the tongue
into the adjacent board first, then press the board into place. Immediately
wipe off any oozing adhesive from board faces. Finally, face nail each end
using 2 or 3 flooring nails or screws, countersinking the heads. Cover heads
with matching wood putty. |
